As the speedboat turns the corner on India's moss-green river Chapora and shoots past muddy water buffalo basking in the midday heat on the banks, Casa Colvale emerges majestically into sight. We could be forgiven for thinking that Doctor No or Odd Job are about to pop out of the chic cream and glass villa flanking the hill, and we have to remind ourselves that we aren't on a secret James Bond mission.

Englishman James Foster, the warm, convivial property manager, greets us with a fresh lime soda as the boat glides smoothly to the pier. "Watch out for the crocodiles," he chirps, only half-joking, as he helps us off the boat.