For many of us this weekend marks the beginning of the holiday season -- that end-of-year gastronomic marathon replete with parties, dinners, celebratory drinks and extended lunches culminating in the feast of Christmas Day itself.

By the time New Year arrives, the danger of palate fatigue is very real. With this in mind, for my holiday drinking I prefer to serve wines that offer a lighter style, compliment food and, dare I say, inspire reflection and conversation rather than immediate gustatory pleasure. It is with increasing frequency that I return to the vineyards of France, Germany and Italy for wines that express a sense of place, what the French describe as terroir. But that is not to say I have closed my eyes to the delights of California, New Zealand and South Africa, which all find a place in this year's list.